A Guide to Hillwalking and Climbing

The Comeraghs are located in the centre of County Waterford and there is not a day in the year without mountaineers, hillwalkers and climbers out enjoying them.
They are definitely one of the finest ranges in Ireland and have an unparalleled mix of mountain features. There's the long and precipitous Knockanaffrin Ridge, the magnificent plateau, the falls in Coum Mahon, the mysterious Foill an Priosun, the tremendous variety in the coums of the Nire Valley, the surprising Coum Iarthar, the historic Crotty's Lake, the wealth of flora and fauna and most of all, the shadowy depths and astounding glacial amphitheatre of Coumshingaun (right).

The Comeraghs are well covered in the Ordnance Survey of Ireland's Discovery Series No.75 Map (Second Edition) and a number of good walking routes are described in "Best Irish Walks" (Edited by Joss Lynam and published by Gill and Macmillan). Another excellent book but unfortunately out of print is "A Guide to the Comeragh Mountains" by Declan McGrath.  It deals comprehensively with how the Comeraghs were formed, what lives in them, what use is made of them and why they should be cherished and protected.

Overall the Comeraghs and particularly the Nire valley are included in almost all of the many guide books to the Irish mountains. Rock climbers should try to get their hands on the "Interim Guide to Rock Climbs in the Comeragh Mountains and Outcrops in the Southeast" edited by Jack Bergin and Stephen Gallwey and which can be viewed online at www.climbing.ie.

Above: Members of the De La Salle Scout Group at the top of the Southwest Gully at Coumshingaun.

A Description of the Comeraghs

Probably the most well known area of the Comeraghs is Coum Mahon, better known as the "Mahon Falls". The valley does indeed have a very impressive waterfall surrounded by striking cliffs and its easy access from the main Waterford to Cork road and its large car park means that it is a very popular destination for day trippers and tourists and during the summer and at weekends it is usually very busy. The walk up the left hand side of the valley onto Comeragh Mountain (668m) itself is a hard slog but the views from the top out to Dungarvan bay and the whole Waterford coast make it well worth it.

On the right hand side, the valley is overlooked by Knockaunapeebra (726m, in Irish it's Cnocan an Phiopaire: The Hill of the Piper) which has two distinctive cairns at the top. There is an excellent view of the entire Comeragh plateau from here. A circular route ascending the left hand side of the valley and crossing the top of the falls before heading up to Knockaunapeebra makes for a very enjoyable short hike. Descent can be made along the spur on the right hand side of the valley. Those who want a scramble and have more experience can ascend through the centre of the falls, keeping to the left of the river and there are some interesting nooks and crannies to be explored as the water makes it's way downhill. During cold weather parts of the falls may be frozen, giving very occasional sport to patient local ice climbers.

On the way up to the Mahon Valley car park, about 500 metres past the cattle grid on the "Magic Road", there is a stunted tree on the left hand side. If you stop here and put your car into neutral it will roll magically back up the hill. This is a well known and unexplained phenomenon which really does work. Just be careful that there are no cars behind you!

Above Left: On Ser Visal's tail (HS 4b) on the south facing cliff at Coumshingaun.
Above Right: Nearing the top of the tricky "Dead Sheep Gully" in the Sgillogues.

Next door to Coum Mahon is the Coumtay valley which can be approached from the upper Mahon Falls carpark. There are a number of small lakes at the top of the coum and if you make a high level circuit around the lakes, you can sneak over and have a look down into the Coumalocha in the Nire valley. There are also excellent views across to Seefin (with it's unfortunate MMDS hut) as well as Coum Eag (the valley of death) and the Farbreaga (false man) horseshoe. There are a few scramble worthy gullies in Coumtay also and a number to challenge even the rockclimber. The most challenging is third in from the right which has an ascent up through the roof of a cave and then up a dreadfully wet crack. Bring a rope and be prepared to be get very wet. Comeragh gully climbing is an acquired taste and is not very widely practiced but it can be very rewarding.  Experience on steep ground is essential and familiarity with canyoning can be an advantage. Watch out for the dead sheep.

Above: The lakes at Coumtay with Coum Eag and the Farbreaga horseshoe in the distance.
Below: The Coumtay valley as seen from its south facing cliffs.

The next most well known area in the Comeraghs is Coumshingaun (Com Seangan: pissmire valley also translated as hollow of the ants), which is said to be one of the best examples of a corrie lake in Europe. It's a spectacular coum which impresses you no matter how often you visit it. You can make a circuit of the lake by going up either on the left or the right hand side although it is probably harder to descend the left hand side which is above the north facing cliffs. The best written description of Coumshingaun can be found in the 'Visitors Guide to the Comeragh Mountains' by Patrick Werner, published by the Blackstaff Press in 1978 and which can be viewed in the Waterford Room of the Waterford City library: "It is difficult to know how to write of Coumshingaun itself. Whether you speak of it as the geography textbooks do, as a magnificent example of corrie glaciation with the loch held up by a large black moraine or whether you see it as a guidebook says 'of unknown depth, associated with irresistible currents and evil spirits', in short whether you are practical or romantic, you are certain to be impressed".

Above: Waves you could almost surf on at Coumshingaun.

He adds: "It is about a mile long, roughly pear shaped, widest at it's western, precipitous end and except in winter when small streams flow down the precipices in headlong cascades, not visibly fed from any source . . . The water of the lake is constantly rippled by changing winds, sometimes steely blue in the sun, more often inky black, and always cold, though fish live in it. It is odd to speculate how they came there. I have seen it through a dazzle of sunshine, through swirling clouds of snow, through driving rain hissing off its surface and appearing and disappearing as mists eddied up and down the precipices and I have never failed to find it beautiful. Perhaps it is best to leave it at that".

Above: Lough Coumshingaun as seen from high on the east facing cliff.
Below: A view of the north facing cliffs of Coumshingaun taken after late Spring snows.

Coumshingaun also has some of the best rock climbing routes as well as gully ascents in the range. In particular the large gully on the left hand side of the back wall is a thoroughly enjoyable scramble.  The highest point in the Comeraghs at 792 metres is not far from the top of Coumshingaun and it is marked by a cairn.  It is not a summit by any stretch of the imagination but when you are there on a clear day the expanse of the Comeragh plateau which rolls out from you in every direction is hugely impressive.  Traversing the plateau in any direction involves careful footwork across the infamous Comeragh bog.  Occasional visitors are often put off by this and are left with a memory of the Comeraghs as 'very boggy' which is quite unfair.  With practice the blackest parts of the bog can be easily avoided and for regular visitors, floating across the bog is just another part of the magic of the range.

Above: The Comeragh plateau from the top of Coum Iarthar with the high point of 792 in the background.

On the left hand side of Coumshingaun lies the silent corrie of Fauscoum (wild growth hollow) which makes its mark by not having a lake. Interestingly the name of Fauscoum has on occasion been used in error for the 792 spot height, thanks mainly to an Ordnance Survey printing error but clearly a mountain top was never meant to be called a wild growth hollow! Next door to Fauscoum is the mysterious Foill an Priosun whose cliffs are incredibly striking even from the road.  High upon them an elusive herd of about 20 wild feral goats have made their home. Further on again is the wide and occasionally interesting rocky ridge behind which lies Coum Mahon.

Above: The cliffs at Foill an Priosun at dawn.
Below: The sure footed wild feral goats of Foill an Priosun with the Coumshingaun ridge behind.

Working your way out to the right from Coumshingaun you must firstly watch out for the Uisce Solais (water of light) stream which has some beautiful falls when the water level is high and occasionally freezes in winter. Further on again is Lough Coum Gabthartha which is better known as Crotty's Lake. William Crotty was a famous Waterford highwayman who was hung, drawn and quartered in the city in 1742. His hiding and look out place was a cave which overlooks the lake and after he was betrayed and captured, his wife threw herself from Crotty's rock to her death on the cliffs below. To the right of Crottys is Coum Iarthar which is quite a long and beautiful valley and which has three small lakes. There is no more peaceful place to camp or stop for lunch in the Comeraghs.  Both Crotty's and the Coum Iarthar can be approached from Rathgormack and are close to the Gap in the Nire valley.

Above: A shadowy Crotty's Lake with Knockanafrinn in the background.
Below: The view across to Knockanafrinn with the Coum Iarthar lakes below.

The Nire valley is a treasure trove of coums and lakes and is a fantastic area for a variety of walks of different lengths. Most people start from the car park which is well signposted from Ballymacarbry but there is also a track which runs over the Gap from the Rathgormack side. Walks can vary from the 6 kilometres up and down to the Sgillogue Loughs or the excellent 20 kilometres which make up a full circuit of the Nire Valley. Take care crossing the Nire river as it can be difficult to cross especially after heavy rain. There is a useful bridge at S273 125. The Nire circuit starts by ascending the right hand side of Lough Coumfea (deer hollow) which at 520 metres is higher than the other lakes in the valley. Coumfea is separated by an arete from the beautiful Coumalocha which has two very impressive lakes and makes a great lunch stop.

Above: The colourful Nire Valley as seen from the cliffs above Coumfea.

From Coumalocha you can make your way across the two spot heights at 744m and 730m which overlook the upper Mahon valley and the plateau. The next stop is the Sgillogue Loughs (the hollow of the cut-off halves) and you could descend (or ascend) the spurs on either side of them. If you have time however you should walk down through the next valley along which is called Coumlara. There is no lake in it but it is very tranquil. Alternatively the steep spur further on that runs directly down into the Gap can be descended with care.  You can follow the waymarked path or the river down to the car park from the Gap or if you're really out for a good day, from there make the rocky ascent to Knockanaffrin (755m, in Irish Cnoc an Aifrinn: the hill of the mass).

Above: The view into the Coumalocha with the Knockanafrinn ridge in the background.
Below: Looking across a snowy Knockanafrinn ridge from Shauneenabreaga.

Knockanaffrin is a much more impressive high point then 792 above Coumshingaun and the views into Coumduala Lough as well as Lough Mohra as you make your way along the ridge are excellent. Really the ridge should be done as a separate walk so that you can take in Shauneenabreaga and Knocksheegowna as well.  A popular starting point for Knockanafrinn is to walk through the forest to Loch Mohra from where you can ascend a spur and then head to the summit. From the top you will be able to look across to Clonmel and the valley of Slievenamon. The Blackstairs and Mount Leinster can also usually be spotted and on an exceptionally clear day you should be able to make out the Wicklow Mountains (definitely a lesser range!). When there is fog, you must be extra careful when descending back down to Mohra as groups have been known to get confused and end up on the wrong side of the ridge.

Above: Knocksheegowna as seen on the descent from Knockanafrinn.

Obscuring the view of the town of Clonmel from Knockanafrinn are the outlying Comeragh peaks of Lachtnafrankee with its punchbowl and Long Hill. These are most often ascended when you are completing your complete Comeragh traverse from Dungarvan to Clonmel.  The Dungarvan Hillwalking Club and the Peaks Mountaineering Club both organise long distance traverse type walks in the Comeraghs each year called the George Harney Memorial Walk and the Comeragh Bogtrot respectively. The full Comeragh traverse is best experienced in a small group however. Drop a car in Clonmel and then drive around and start on the far side of Crohaun near Dungarvan.  Take in Crohaun, Farbreaga, Seefin, the top of Coumtay, Knockaunapeebra, 792, the top of Coumshingaun, the top of the Coum Iarthar, down to the Gap, right along the Knockanafrinn ridge, across Lachtnafrankee and Long Hill and down into Clonmel. Its just as enjoyable in the other direction but it's not an outing for the fainthearted.  However no other Irish long distance high level walk comes close to its quality.

Above: Seefin as seen on the descent from Farbreaga.

Close to the Nire valley and sometimes known as the Moin an Mhullaigh Mountains is the area which contains Seefin (Suidhe Finn: Fionn's Sitting place) and Farbreaga. Seefin has a large track running up the side of it and has been quite spoilt by the hut and enclosure at the top of it. However there is an interesting walk from Dalligan bridge up to Farbreaga, around the horseshoe and then down to the col before the ascent to Seefin. This area is of particular historical interest as there is a standing stone at the col and three ancient cairns on Seefin including one close to the trig point at the summit. From Seefin you can navigate across to the Nire or Mahon valleys or alternatively descend down along Tooreen (little cattle field) mountain and Milk Hill.  A much more enjoyable and unspoilt ascent of Seefin can be had by traversing in from Coumtay and ascending to the summit up its north side through the rarely visited Coum a Chnocain (Hollow of the Little Hill).

Above: Descending to Loch Mohra from the Knockanafrinn Ridge.

All visitors to the Comeraghs will be impressed by the numbers of birds and other animals that inhabit or visit the range.  There are over eighty species of birds in total that frequent the range which makes it a haven for ornithologists.  Most notable is the peregrine falcon which is definitely the 'monarch of the coums' and their presence at Coumshingaun in particular is hard to miss.  In the summer months meadow pipits are the most widespread bird and the loud call of the ravens that inhabit every coum all year round is unmistakable. In terms of mammals, there are many foxes and rabbits in all areas of the range.  Occasionally Irish hares and pygmy shrews can be spotted and in the lower areas there are small numbers of fallow deer, stoats and minks.  The tell tale ripples in the lakes confirm that there are fish in most of them with brown trout being the most common. Observant visitors will also spot the small selection of butterflies, moths and dragonflies which can be seen.  You don't need to be quite so observant to spot the often plentiful black slugs and at times in autumn the midges can be a real scourge. Regardless of your ability to identify the many creatures that inhabit the Comeraghs an awareness that they are there and a moment taken to look and listen for them is always time well spent.

Above: The east facing cliff at Coumshingaun.

Geologically the Comeraghs have been in the making for about 500 million years and it has been a turbulent history the result of which is that they now dominate the landscape of County Waterford. They were formed when many different sediments were cemented together resulting in the range's composition of mainly conglomerate rock in which sandstone features strongly. The ice age also left a dramatic impact carving out the numerous coums and leaving the cliffs and aretes which can be seen today. This geological history combined with the obvious impact of man have resulted in the vegetation types seen throughout the Comeraghs today. There are three species of heather in the range and the purple blanket of colour which can be seen in the autumn when it flowers is a sight to behold. At the same time of year the widespread bracken can be a challenge to walk through at times.  There is very little natural woodland remaining but there are occasional clusters of rowans and holly and hawthorn trees are also to be seen in places.  The Comeraghs also boast the carniverous sundew as well as a reasonable selection of other flowering plants with a number of rarities thriving on the high cliffs.  Overall there is plenty to occupy the nature specialists but fortunately it takes little knowledge to admire the rich variety of flora and the fantastic colours which it brings to the range.

Above: The cliffs at the back of Coumshingaun at dawn.

The Comeraghs are a range you'll never tire of visiting. Like many ranges it is gradually changing and in some ways it is under threat. Problems include the encroachment of unwanted bracken, the undesirable visual impact of conifer forests (the Mahon valley has been markedly improved by the removal of the forest there), there has also been some poor road construction and siting. There are many agricultural activities occurring around the Comeraghs but the most common is sheep grazing which needs to be managed carefully so that a balance between protecting the upland area and sustaining livelihoods and the population is maintained. The proliferation of unnecessary and inexplicable sheep fencing continues apace and is very regrettable.  The most offensive man made building is the MMDS hut at the top of Seefin, the road running up to it and the fenced in enclosure there. It was originally erected illegally in 1979 but planning permission was subsequently approved for it. It would be welcome if this area could in some way be restored.

Above: The view of Seefin from Farbreaga.
Below: The view into Coumshingaun from the ridge above the North facing cliffs.

Obviously the Comeraghs attract many visitors and the numbers are increasing each year which is having an adverse effect in some areas close to roads.  For example in recent years there has been noticeable erosion on the higher parts of the ridge on the left hand side of Coumshingaun. However as Declan McGrath states in his book 'the damage to the open slopes arising from the pressure of numbers visiting the range is not any way near as severe or as obtrusive as the necessary roads and tracks that some would argue are essential to draw visitors (and particularly their cars) to the range'. The impact of visitors to the range will have to be closely monitored and any new developments examined carefully.

Above: The Comeraghs dominate the landscape of County Waterford.  They are seen above from the backstrand in Tramore.

It would be a dream for the Comeraghs and other such magnificent and scarce Irish upland areas to become protected national parks in the future.  Sadly the preservation of these outstanding areas for future generations is not seen as a high priority by the public or by government and the mountaineering community itself needs to do more to raise awareness of the issues of both conservation and access.  Access to the Comeraghs through farmland where it is necessary has to date been mostly hassle free but that is not a situation which is guaranteed for the future. For example, the landowner at Crotty's has taken the lamentable step to close access to the land there.  Hopefully there will be no further cases of this type but without a right to non-intrusive access through lowlands and an unequivocal right to freely roam the mountains, continued access to the beauty of the Comeraghs will never be assured.  These are rights which exist across most of the countries in Europe and sooner rather than later they will have to be fought for in Ireland.  One can only hope however that the inspiring beauty and wild attractiveness of the Comeraghs will be around to be enjoyed for many years to come.

Above Left: Ascending the southwest gully at Coumshingaun.
Above Right: Ascending the Knockanafrinn Ridge.

Accommodation and Camping

Above: A Mountain Pursuit Challenge basecamp underneath Cnocan an Phiopaire at the top of Coum Mahon.

There is camping and caravanning facilities available at Powers the Pot (051 23085) which is close to the Nire Valley and there is hostelling at the excellent Rathgormack Hiking Centre (051-646172). Generally wild camping can take place in most areas of the Comeraghs. However it should be remembered that almost all of the Comeraghs are used by farmers for grazing sheep and camping should be undertaken only in a responsible and environmentally sound manner. If there are houses or farms nearby permission must first be obtained. Under no circumstances should fires be lit; care must be taken to avoid polluting streams or lakes; damage to walls, fences and gates must be avoided and absolutely no rubbish should be left behind. Bins are provided in most car parks but you should bring your waste home. If you come across any rubbish or waste in the mountains, then do your bit and take it home. The principles of Leave No Trace are the order of the day.

Above: Accommodation in the heart of the Comeraghs at Ned Curran's in the Coumtay valley.

The Comeragh Mountaineering Club in Waterford City, the Dungarvan Hillwalking Club and the Peaks Mountaineering Club in Clonmel arrange regular walks of varying difficulty in the range.  The best thing to do though is just to go and remember that as with all mountain ranges which have many coums and corrie lakes and the cliffs associated with them; care and good navigation are essential for safe and enjoyable walking.

Above: Looking into Coumshingaun Lough with the cliffs covered in a dusting of snow.

Rock Climbing

The 'Interim Guide to Rock Climbing in the Comeragh Mountains and the Southeast' is currently being revised and will hopefully be available again soon because as the guide states: 'The Comeragh mountains and surrounding areas have much to offer the rock climber, from long airy mountainous routes on the East Facing cliff of Coumshingaun, to hard technical routes on its North Facing cliff'. An online but not up to date version without topos is available at www.climbing.ie. The Rathgormack Climbing Club who meet at the Rathgormack Hiking Centre are the most active climbers in the range and are the best source of up to date information.

For those whose climbing is focused in the lower to middle grades, there are number of routes which come highly recommended. On the north facing cliff, Karaluk (HS 4b) is enjoyable once you have slogged up to its base and just down from it on the east wall are Amelia (VS 4c) and Harvest Moon (HVS 5a). An examination of the 'detached block' makes an ascent of Harvest Moon worthwhile in itself. Between there and 'A Walk on the West End' which is the arete at the end of the cliff, there are numerous single and multi pitch routes from HVS to E3 if they're to your liking.

One way or another A Walk on the West End (HS 4a, 4c), Antsy's Desire (HVS 4b, 5a), Dark Angel (HVS 4c, 5a), Crooked Smile (HVS 4b, 5a) and the new Filamingo (VS 4c) are must-climbs and are certainly worthy of a few stars. Meanwhile the outstandingly situated Emperor's Nose (E2 5c, 5a) is a superb climb and includes the wildest swing out onto an arete for a single hold that you will ever make.

Take a good pair of hiking boots and a hedge trimmer for Prelude on the lower tier of the east facing cliff which is a truly adventurous place.  Most of the routes there have only had one or two ascents and only occasionally come in to condition. Meanwhile the main south facing cliff offers a small number of very accessible routes. Stevedores (VS 4c, 4b) has an excellent first pitch. Just beside it are Monkey Business and Ser Visal's tail, both HS 4b and be warned, the area above both those climbs is very overgrown. At the top of those two, you can also find the thoroughly enjoyable Devices and Desires (HS 4b).

Overall there is lots of potential for exploration and new development by climbers with only small areas within the north facing cliffs having anything approaching route saturation. Most of the areas can realistically be reached within a brisk 50 minutes from the main Coumshingaun carpark and there is certainly no queuing for routes!

Elsewhere in the Comeraghs, Coum Mahon, Coum Iarthar, Fauscoum and Foill an Priosun offer a variety of routes and lately there has been some probing of the gullies and aretes of Crotty's lake. Ong Gong Arete (HVS 5a) takes the longest possible line up the main face of Crotty's Rock while Maha Mind (HVS 5b) is a harder and very enjoyable variant.  Whatever you take on, a day or an evening hanging off a cliff in the Comeraghs is an essential experience for any Irish climber.

Above: Relaxing at the top of Stevedores at Coumshingaun in the Comeraghs.

Written by Colm Ennis. Photos by Colm Ennis and Aidan Ennis.
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Above: The Knockanafrinn Ridge with a wintry covering.

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